Monday, 30 January 2012

iwata HP-C Long term review



I have now used my Iwata HP-C airbrush for a year and it is time to write a review. I'm extremely happy with Iwata it has worked flawlessly all the time. It has passed all kinds of acrylic paint such as Vallejo Model Color, Air Vallejo, Model Master, Tamiya and Gunze without clogging up once. I just pull back the trigger a little bit and it spits out any dry color and it's ready to continue to paint again. The entire airbrush feels solid and tolerance between the parts are very tight. I rarely need to disassemble the airbrush to clean it, I just spray through it with cleaning fluid. It is easy to disassemble however, but the nozzle needs a special tool to remove it and it´s very small so you have to be careful not to lose it. Ergonomics could be better and the trigger can be uncomfortable after prolonged use. I also own an H&S Evolution airbrush so it's only natural to compare the two, The Evolution has better ergonomics, but fall behind on all other points. I does not mean that evolution is a bad airbrush it's just like comparing a BMW to a Mercedes, The Iwata just feels a little tighter and more precise to use and is less prone to clogg up than the Evolution.


I would not hesitate to recommend Iwata HP-C, it is a solid buy.

Sunday, 22 January 2012

Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress Monogram 1/48

The Monogram 1:48 scale B-17 with full interior and figures.



I was very happy when etch and masks finally arrived after a month. I was totally convinced that they were lost in the post.




Finally start building. I dry fitted the major components and discovered that Monogram has a clever solution to keep the wings in place without glue, just press it in and slide it forward to lockit, great!




I primed with diluted matt white.




I could not resist buying this decal set.


I used the Eduard etch for the dash board and throttle console, the rest is kit parts except the navigators lamp which I fiddled together myself.



I used oil paint to both wash and dry brushing.


The cockpit dry fitted against the fuselage.


The crew primed.


Now that they are ready, I discover that they may not fit so well in the aircraft. The pilots are too small and does not reach down to the pedals, waist gunners will be in a weird position when the aircraft is on the ground. Hope it does not show so much when everything is finished.


Body halves glued together and primed.


The wings fuselage are finally ready to paint. There was a lot of filling and sanding to get the joints smooth and nice. First, I used Tamiya white putty and sanded smooth then I filled in with Mr. surface 500 and sanded smooth again. Here are the wings and fuselage are pre shaded and ready to be painted.



The upper side was painted olive drab. The first step is to paint all the panels leaving the black panel lines.


The next step is to paint the entire surface with a more diluted paint mix. Make sure not to cover the black lines completely.




It is a tedious work to fill in all panels. But almost finished now.






Finally done!


Tamiya matt colors are very susceptible to scratches, so before I can handle the model safely it needs a layer of varnish. The clear coat also helps the decals to stick to the model without silvering. Model Master Gloss Clear is my  favorite clear but if you put on too thick it can dry milky so take care and spray two or three thin coats rather than one heavy layer.


I was not happy with Tamiya olive drab it looked too dark and more like the early shiny pre-war olive drab rather than the wartime Drab. I sprayed thinned Gunze H78 over the Tamiya XF 62 to lighten the color scheme, and to get a more realistic uneven olive drab shade. The neutral grey underside is a bit too light but some dark washes will remedy that. 



I could not get enough of the tedious work of masking so I decided at the last moment to choose decal option "Man o War II" with red fins. Well it's my day off so I had some spare time to mask and paint the red.


Deicing boots were masked off and painted semi-gloss black.




Last pictures before finishing.



Now I have lowered and softened the the border between Olive Drab and Neutral Grey and I think it raises the overall impression a notch.



Eagle Strike decals are a little thick and do not seem to react well with my decal softener, especially national insignia on the wing seems to settle bad. I should have anticipated this, especially when I had the same problem with the large decals on my 1:48 scale Lancaster. I should have painted on the markings instead. I have pricked the decal with a scalpel and given it an  additional treatment with decal softener and hope it settle overnight. If not I have to remove the decal and paint it on instead.



The aircraft is ready for a final layer of matte varnish. And I take the opportunity to build the bomb car and paint the mechanics. Almost done now.

Sunday, 15 January 2012

How to Apply a wash

You can buy pre-mixed washes but the best and cheapest way is to mix your own wash. I prefer to wash with diluted oil paint because it dries very slowly and it gives me plenty of time to correct any mistakes. It also flows easily into all the nooks and crannies the model and dosen't pool as acrylic wash often do. 


I usally mix up my wash with odorless thinner and black oil paint but depending on model and camouflage, I also use washes of burnt umber, sienna and other earth tones . The wash should be as thin as 20 parts thinner to one part paint if the wash is too strong, simply dilute with more thinner. When I'm satisfied with the mix, I just brush it on the model. I let wash sit for half an hour and then wipe off the excess with a rag moistened with thinner. Be sure to always wipe in the direction of the imaginary air flow over the fuselage. I use a damp cotton swab for tight places. I usually go over the model a second time more carefully this time with a smaller brush and concentrating more on details.

















Wednesday, 11 January 2012

RAL PARTHA'S T'CHAR - DRAGON OF FLAME AND FURY


 I got this dragon as a birthday gift some fifteen years ago and it has since lain in a drawer, assembled but unpainted. Since I made ​​a New Year's resolution to finish all my unfinished projects I started with this the oldest one, the Ral Partha T'CHAR, a fitting start to the year of the Dragon. The kit is a multimedia kit with resin and metal parts so I had assembled all the parts with epoxy glue and primed the model with matt white paint before I put it in the drawer to ferment for fifteen year. I now only had to collect some courage and start painting. It proved to be quite simple, the body was painted red and orange and the wings were painted dark red-violet then the whole model got a dark wash. After details such as claws, horns and eyes had been painted I sprayed the model with Citadel Purity Seal.









Sunday, 8 January 2012

Revell Vasa



Scale: 1/150
Type: Injection moulded
Plastic parts: 330
Vacuum formed Sails
Hight: 345mm
Length: 455mm







A new model of the Swedish 17th century warship Vasa arrived just before Christmas and what an amazing Christmas gift it is. I always wanted to build a model of the Vasa, but the old Airfix Wasa was a pain to build and kit was based on the early wreck before the final restoration, and therefore lacked many parts and had a speculative rig. This new kit is a completely different business, Revell has worked closely with the Vasa Museum in Stockholm and this kit is incorporating all the latest research findings on the rig, colors and ship details. The real ship was painted in bright colors and decorated with lots of colorful characters and creatures so the kit will require a lot of patience and steady hands to paint and finish. Luckily it comes with a detailed manual with an extensive rig and painting instruction.


To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the salvaging of the Vasa The Swedish television has made ​​a 2 part documentary about the Vasa with the help of computer-generated graphics. (only in Swedish at the moment)


Part 1 http://svtplay.se/v/2658512/dokumentarfilm/vasa_1628_del_1
Part 2 http://svtplay.se/v/2658523/dokumentarfilm/vasa_1628_del_2


More information about the ship please visit http://www.vasamuseet.se/en/











Saturday, 7 January 2012

Tarangus Saab 32 Lansen


Scale: 1/48
Panel lines: Recessed
Type: Injection moulded short run
Plastic parts: 76
Resin parts: 2
Decal options: 2
Wingspan: 270mm
Length: 311mm



SAAB A32 Lansen (Lance) was a Swedish two-seater all weather attack aircraft from the mid fifties. Together with the J29 Tunnan (Barrel), the A32 Lansen formed the backbone of the Swedish Air Force in the fifties and sixties. It is a sleek, swept winged aircraft with a high thrust to weight ratio I've actually seen the airplane at an air show lifting from the runway, accelerate and then rise vertically like a Me 163 Komet to over 3000m (9000 ft). It was also the first Swedish-produced aircraft that could break the sound barrier, albeit in a slight dive. It is also one of my favorite planes so I'm very happy to see it in the 1:48 scale providing greater justice to this large aircraft than the old Heller kit in 1:72 scale. The kit is a modern low-pressure injection molded short run, which makes the parts a bit softer than high-pressure injection kits, but still the parts are very good and nicely defined. It's probably no shake n' bake but previous reviews show no major problems with the fit. Detail in the cockpit is a bit sparse, but two nice resin ejection seats is included. Most people will probably buy an etch set to upgrade the cockpit anyway. The decals are incredible with perfect registration and color but I would have liked an option with the colorful initial delivery scheme (bare metal with blue fin and orange nose cone) There are no armament included in the kit but there are a lot of armament and other bits and pieces in resin on the way from Maestro Models. The kit is expensive but truly unique and you will probably never see this aircraft kited from any of the main stream manufacturers.